San Francisco
Mission District’s best
A melange of Mexican, Central American, and other Latino heritages, the historically Hispanic Mission District has been undergoing big-time change. Though it still seems to have an atmospheric taqueria on every corner, it has seen an influx of trendy shops, bars, and restaurants. Do be on the lookout for the numerous murals that decorate the neighborhood walls. Mission and 24th streets projects a south-of-the-border attitude, while Valencia Street leans more to the young and hip with its peppering of cafes, bookstores, and vintage-clothing shops.
The action is centered at Mission and 24th streets, but radiates out in all directions.
For a compact tour, begin at Mission Dolores (16th/Dolores streets), stroll east on 16th Street to Valencia Street, then south to 24th Street, then left/east to the 2800 block.
Getting here by public transportation: There are two BART stations in the neighborhood. One at 16th Street/Mission Street and the other at 24th Street/Mission Street.
Parking is particularly difficult. Some streets permit parking in the middle of the street on certain days.
Mission District annual event
Carnaval San Francisco
May. Free.
This spectacular Mardi Gras-like revel is a multicultural celebration of life. It includes a parade and a 2-day outdoor festival.
image courtesy of venue
Mission Street (north)
Note that most of Mission Street seems a cross between the blight encountered in Tijuana and the bustle found in Jackson Heights in Queens, New York. It has not been gentrified, though a few more upscale restaurants have found a home here. There isn’t much of interest between the two BART stations except for marijuana outlets and tattoo parlors.
24th Street BART Station SW corner of Mission St./24th St.
La Taqueria
2889 Mission St./25th St. No credit cards.
For fast food Mexican-style, step through one of the two arches here and head to the order counter. Then pick a table, and kick back. Entertainment is provided by a colorful folk mural decorating one wall, by cooks in the open kitchen busily preparing orders, and by a jukebox with Mexican music. The menu is simple: either a taco made with two steamed corn tortillas or a burrito made with a flour tortilla. Fillings are a choice of pork, beef, sausage, chicken, or vegetarian (beans and cheese). Pinto beans and fresh tomato salsa round things out; avocado and sour cream cost a bit more. In 2014, the carnitas super burrito, dorado style, was named by FiveThirtyEight as the best burrito in the U.S., and was praised especially for its juiciness. Depending on the season, delicious housemade fresh fruit drinks include strawberry, cantaloupe, orange, banana, and pineapple.
Pick up a walk-away dessert next door at Dianda’s Italian-American Pastry, where everything is made from scratch and the cannoli are particularly good.
El Farolito
2779 Mission St./24th St. Cash only.
This is the original of a mini-chain of popular taquerias. Mission-style burritos are available here as a “regular” burrito–with rice and beans, salsa, and your choice of meat–or a “super” burrito–the same size but with cheese, sour cream, and avocado. Good nachos, tacos on mini corn tortillas, quesadillas Suiza, and aguas fresca are also on the menu. Decor includes neon-colored booths, and a jukebox defines the atmosphere.
Foreign Cinema
2534 Mission St./21st St.
Operating within the dramatically remodeled interior of a former department store in which everything was ripped out and left bare and trendy, this wildly popular spot attracts the hordes down its long, votive-lit corridor to party and feast. Seating is either on an open-air patio (covered by a canopy in cool weather and well-heated), where diners can watch the foreign flick of the week, or in the roaring main dining room with its 20-foot-tall ceiling. Specialties include an expansive oyster bar, baked cheese with roasted potatoes, curry-roasted chicken, and chocolate pot de crème. Several communal tables are available for walk-ins.
Gracias Madre
2211 Mission St./18th St.
The contrast between the serene interior here and the sketchy exterior area is quite a jolt. But once inside you can enjoy good vegan Mexican cuisine with sophisticated seasoning and use of a wonderful cashew cheese and a noteworthy vegan chorizo. Dishes include open-faced stacked enchiladas, tasty mashed black beans, gorditas, and tacos with a choice of six fillings. Patrons especially like the Bowl Uno featuring a flavorful tempeh chorizo, flautas de camote–mashed sweet potato rolled in a fried tortilla, and a chimichanga made with tempeh chorizo, caramelized onions, red peppers, potatoes, black beans, cashew chipotle aioli, a guacamole topping. Tortas are made with organic bread from Acme Bakery in Berkeley, and chilaquiles are sometimes available as a special. All cheeses and milks are made using nuts, and tortillas and tamales are handmade with non-GMO organic heirloom corn. Desserts are particularly good and include chocolate cake, ice cream, and flan. Seating includes a big communal table plus an inviting front patio area.
20th Street (east)
The David Ireland House
500 Capp St./20th St., 1 blk. E of Mission St.
This was once home to the late American conceptual artist David Ireland and is now operated as a private museum. More description and images.
SanJalisco
901 S. Van Ness Ave./20th St., 2 blks. E of Mission St.
This cheerfully decorated Mexican restaurant serves its popular breakfast item through lunch. More description and images.
24th Street (east)
3100 block
Philz Coffee
3101 24th St./Folsom St.
Known for its made-to-order drip coffee and investors that include Snoop Dogg, this coffeehouse began right here 20 years ago as a grocery store. Now it has 22 locations and counting, and is the coffee served on Virgin America airlines. But personally, I think the baristas here can be a tad too cheery. They spoil what could be a cooler, more unfriendly, beatnik-style ambiance. The mostly liquid menu includes an array of coffees (I favor the yummy mint mojito iced version), a thick hot chocolate, and some pastries and a good baklava.
Taqueria Guadalajara
3146 24th St./Shotwell St.
Burritos, tacos, a salsa bar, and hand-painted murals. What more could you want? Unless you’re starving, go with the Super Baby Burrito.
Taqueria Guadalajara
3146 24th St./Shotwell St.
Burritos, tacos, a salsa bar, and hand-painted murals. What more could you want? Unless you’re starving, go with the Super Baby Burrito.
Wise Sons Jewish Delicatessen
3150 24th St./Shotwell St.
You’ll find Jewish classics and sandwiches here. Meat is prepared in house and stacked high in the pastrami and corned beef sandwiches, and each includes a heaping side of delicious potato salad or coleslaw and some pickle spears. Rye bread, challah, and babka are baked fresh. The Downtown Special consisting of a half sandwich, side salad, and matzo ball soup is a bargain.
Luz de Luna
3182 24th St./S. Van Ness Ave.
This store is stuffed to the brim with everything Mexican, and has more Frida Kahlo than the gift shop at the Frida Kahlo house museum in Mexico City.
3000 block
Alley Cat Books
3036 24th St./Balmy St.
All the appreciated features of a small independent bookstore plus a Zoltar Fortune Telling Machine in the back.
Balmy Alley
off 24th St. to 25th St. & Garfield Square, parallel to Treat Ave and Harrison St.
A fine collection of outdoor murals runs down this alley. Balmy Alley is a one-block-long alley that is home to the most concentrated collection of murals in the city of San Francisco. Since 1973, most buildings on the street have been decorated with a mural.
Humphry Slocombe Ice Cream
Off 24th St., at 2790A Harrison St.
Among the crazy flavors are Blue Bottle Vietnamese Coffee, Secret Breakfast, and bourbon and cereal flakes. But don’t miss the Jesus Juice or Bourbon Coke Float.
Haus Coffee
3086 24th St./Folsom St.
This is not your usual coffeehouse. It has a minimalist decor, a great back patio with umbrellas, free Wi-Fi, and plenty of room to spread out.
2900 block
Precita Eyes Mural Arts Center
2981 24th St./Harrison St.
Guided tours of the area’s murals are scheduled on most Saturdays and Sundays.
2800 block
La Palma Mexicatessen
2884 24th St./Florida St. No cards.
All that’s needed for a picnic feast is a can of refried beans, a few avocados, and some handmade corn tortillas freshly cooked on huge griddles in the back of the grocery. Or just order up a made-to-order taco or burrito. And don’t forget to pick up some fresh housemade tortillas, tamales, and Salvadorean papusas (tortillas stuffed with cheese and spicy pork) to take home. Mexican and Central American cooking supplies and colorful, inexpensive piñatas are also available.
St. Francis Fountain
2801 24th St./York St.
Here since 1918, this informal cafe retains its old-time wooden booths and counter with swivel stools, and it claims to be the oldest ice cream parlor in San Francisco. Specialties include a Guinness float and a hot vanilla shake. The menu features typical diner fare, including pancakes, waffles, soups, salads, sandwiches, and burgers, plus many vegan options.
(www.berkeleyandbeyond2.com; copyright Carole Terwilliger Meyers)